What is Goodyear welted construction?
Goodyear welting is a traditional shoemaking method that stitches the upper, insole and sole together using a separate strip of leather called a welt. This creates a strong, structured shoe that can be resoled and repaired many times.
Where did Goodyear welting begin?
The process dates back to 1869, when Charles Goodyear Jr patented machinery that mechanised the traditional method of hand welting shoes. It allowed shoemakers to produce consistently high-quality footwear while retaining the strength and longevity of handmade construction.
How does it compare to other constructions?
Unlike cemented construction, where the sole is glued directly to the upper, a Goodyear welted shoe is held together with stitching. This means it takes longer to produce and requires considerable skill, but offers several advantages:
Strong and long-lasting construction
Easier to resole and repair
Improved water resistance
A cork-filled footbed that gradually moulds to the wearer
Less waste, as the shoes can be maintained rather than replaced
Blake-stitched shoes are also sewn rather than glued, but the stitching passes directly through the insole and outsole. This creates a lighter, more flexible shoe, while Goodyear welting generally provides greater structure and weather resistance.
Why is Goodyear welting important to Grenson?
Grenson has been making Goodyear welted shoes since the late 19th century, and the process remains at the heart of our business today. While we now use several different constructions, Goodyear welting represents what we have always believed in: making proper shoes, properly, and making them to last.