A glossary of terms
Don't know your Brogue from your Derby? Cordovan from your calf leather? Our handy jargon buster will help teach you everything you may want to know about shoes and the manufacturing process. Can't see a term you want to know? Please get in touch and our team will be happy to help.
Burnishing
Piece of the upper pattern that sits over the toe. We buy the best calf leather available. We buy a special type of leather that is very ‘raw’ or ‘naked’ which we then build up the colour on the nished shoe. Each burnishing builds in another layer of colour, creating a deep, hand polished, antiqued look. In cheaper shoes a polish is applied on top to create a similar effect but we actually work the colour into the leather creating more depth.
Closed Channel
This is a technique on high end Goodyear Welted shoes where the sole stitches are hidden by cutting a tiny slit at the edge of the sole, rolling back the leather, stitching into the slit, and then rolling the leather back over it.
Cordovan
Is horse leather. Only the rear of the horse is used and is cut from the animal in a shell shape hence its name ‘shell cordovan’. It has more natural oils in it than calf and is therefore easier to shine.
Grain or 'Scotch grain'
This is leather with a pattern stamped into the surface making the impression of a rough animals skin surface. Most leathers can be stamped with this type of pattern
Goodyear Welted
A shoemaking technique invented by Charles Goodyear in 1871 whereby a leather strip (welt) is stitched to the upper and the sole is then stitched to the welt. Benefits include strength and ease of repair. This is the key characteristic of English shoemaking.
Medallion / Centre / Flower
This is the classic brogue pattern on the toe of the shoe and is regarded as a very English detail.
Northampton
This is the home of British men’s shoemaking. All of the top British brands are from Northampton or the county of Northamptonshire.
Whole Cut
A shoe made from a single piece of leather, usually an oxford with a single seam at the back. Example: Trent.
Crepe
A soft and rough form of rubber.
Dainite
An old English rubber sole that is stitched onto the welt in the same way as a leather sole is. It is very traditional but also used on fashion shoes. It was rst developed a hundred years ago as a golf shoe sole.
commando
The Commando sole is a rugged, hard wearing rubber sole with a cleated pro le to provide grip that is often worn in the military.
Micro sole
A sole made from rubber with air blown into it to make it very light.
Chelsea Boot
A higher mid height boot with elastic gussets on either side, named after its popularity on the Kings Road in Chelsea in the 1960’s. Example: Declan.
Chukka Boot
A low cut boot with normally two or three eyelets, named after a Polo Chukka where this style was once used. Example: Marcus.
Derby / Gibson
The opposite of the Oxford, the back of the shoe is stitched on top of the front thereby creating a big opening where the laces are.
Oxford
Where the front half of the shoe is stitched on top of the back half, making a narrow ‘V’ opening where the laces are.
Semi Brogue
A shoe with a straight toe cap and a punched medallion on the toe. Example: Matthew.
Wing Tip
A shoe with a toe cap in the shape of a birds wing. Also known as a full brogue. Example: Sid.